Last night I ate chopped up octopus that was still moving. It put up a good fight. It attached itself to the plate, forcing me to abandon my chopsticks. Then it fastened itself to my fingertips, from which I had to scrape it with my teeth before I chewed vigorously. Finally I swallowed.
Later, as I watched intently another octopus left in the tank, the woman scooped it out with a net and placed it in my hand, showing me to hold it just so: below the head, above the tentacles – there really are eight of them and the suction cups are appropriately named. It curled itself all around my hand, up my wrist, attaching itself like its dead companion to my fingertips and finally, after my curiosity was satiated, dumped back into its tank to await its own fate of hungry late-night mouths.
I found out later that this dish is called sannakji: live baby octopus cut into bits. It’s listed under “We Dare You” in my Korea guidebook.