Sunday, April 11, 2010

Sept 2008: Chuseok

A temple at Haeinsa (해인사), a Buddhist temple near Daegu.

Me and Glorya quenching our thirst at a spring in Heinsa.

One of many rows of the 81,258 woodblocks of the Tripitaka Koreana, housed in the Janggyeon Panjeon at Haeinsa. It's believed that this hall was renovated in 1457 (which means it was build earlier than that). The hall uses only ancient and natural preservation techniques, and the wooden blocks have remained free of mildew and rot for centuries! Actually, the blocks were moved to a modern building in the 1970s, but they started to mildew, so were promptly returned to their original home here at Haeinsa.

Leaving the Janggyeon Panjeon.

Me, Glorya, and Glorya's uncle Eul-ji (을지), who served as our guide.

Me and Glorya outside Haeinsa.

Me, Glorya, and Glorya's aunt at their family's burial ground on Chuseok (Thanksgiving). We brought food to offer to their ancestors, and had a little picnic there.

Later that weekend, we went into the city for some urban adventures. These were taken at a "Doctor Fish" cafe, where fish nibble dead skin off your feet! Yes, it tickles.

Glorya, getting her feet cleaned~

You can't see my feet, but there are Doctor Fish all over them, too!

Putting some final touches on pictures we took in a photo booth in the mall. This thing was way cooler than the photo booth at the roller-skating rink! But also much more difficult to use, and it didn't help that all the instructions were in Japanese! It was an adventure in an of itself.

A bakery dedicated to my bun!

June 2008: A Visit

I returned home in March 2008, and went back for a short visit in June to see if I wanted to go back for a second year. This trip didn't produce many pictures, but here are a few:
Hiking around a couple days after I arrived.


And, of course, some water lilies: although I do believe the pictures I took at Bainbridge Gardens were much better (see below: yeah, they're good ones).


Feb 2008: A Winter Adventure

If I recall, this little road trip was over Lunar New Year weekend, when most teachers had a full week off. So, they were all in Thailand, Cambodia, and the like. I, having merely a long weekend, finally read The Brothers Karamazov (during hours-long visits to Starbucks), caught up on much-needed sleep, and went on this road trip with Sanchez.


Me, standing on a frozen lake for the second time in my life (the first time had been a few weeks earlier). We just don't get this kind of weather in the PNW!


An overlook at a couple pools: would-be swimming holes if it were a little warmer, I think! On the way back, this was all covered in snow (see below).


Finally, the waterfall! As you can see, it had started snowing by this time, so our entire hike back out was in the snow. Not exactly the vacation our friends were having in SE Asia. :)

Sanchez, ready to go fishing.

The overlook on our way back.

On the way out.

We found a nice, cozy restaurant somewhere down the road. They let us eat inside, unlike this unfortunate Chindo.

Dec 2007: Christmas

Wow, this was a long time ago! Two of my students at the time, Ellie and Luna, brought be the best Christmas present I could have asked for: a plastic Christmas tree! (I made kimchi with Ellie's family a few entries back.) I saw both Ellie and Luna when I went back to Korea the next year, but have since lost their contact info.

They were great: funny, sarcastic, and independent. Luna always said she wanted to marry for love (she did, and had a baby about a year ago), but Ellie would only consider tall, handsome, rich men (she was single every time I saw her). Ellie looked on Luna's romantic notions with disdain: Ellie is a true Korean.

This picture was taken at Suzanne's Christmas party. Nice earmuffs, huh? I got those for Suzanne.

And, as we all know, I got a little dog for myself, which soon became Heidi's, and then my parents': Humeong!

Dusting off the cobwebs

Having recently returned from a visit to Korea (and not wanting to write my paper that is due Monday), I decided to brush the cobwebs off my blog. I got a real kick out of a draft I started when I returned to Korea in August of 2008 to teach in the public schools.

In this entry, I was relating that I was the only foreign teacher at these schools, and I had a lot of downtime at work that year: although I was required to be at work 8 hours a day, I only taught for about 4 of those hours. The rest were spent in cultural exchange, which covered quite a range of topics, including but by no means limited to:

What do students do during recess in the United States?

My friend told me I should get plastic surgery to make my eyes bigger. (A very common procedure for Korean women)

Is it true that you can ride the bus for free in some parts of Seattle?

Do you like kimchi?
Yes...
OH!! Really?? (all teachers exchange impressed and thoughtful looks)

What is your favorite Korean food?
Um...probably budae-jjigae.
OH!! haha, budae-jjigae! (I don't think they expected me to answer....)

Can you read the Korean alphabet?
Yes....
OH!! Really?? Woooow, you are a linguistic genius!
(I tried to point out to them that our entire conversation was in English, which demonstrates their language proficiency, not mine.)

All Korean food is very healthy, and will make you thin and beautiful.


Since, as mentioned, I am practicing the art of procrastination, I'm going to spend some time now so going through old pictures from last year to see if there are any worth posting on this blog. Not that anybody is still reading it after over two years of neglect....

Sunday, December 2, 2007

making kimchi

Late fall is kimchi season, and all I hear about from my students is how tired they are because their family made kimchi over the weekend. Since my culinary preferences have become fairly Korean, I've been intrigued by this sudden burst of kimchi stories.

Everybody is having kimchi parties! All the aunts, uncles, and cousins make a trip to grandma's house and make mass quantities of kimchi to last all of them for most of the upcoming year. I imagine mountains of kimchi from the way the students talk about it -- they have 15 family members helping, use 100-200 cabbages, complain of sore shoulders and backs for several days after.

I found out that not many people actually know how to make kimchi now -- grandma knows, but often not mothers, and rarely the daughters. I couldn't believe this, because the food is just short of a cultural obsession here. Realizing this made me want to learn how to make it more than ever, since it's sort of a dying art. Most kimchi is made in China and imported -- ironic, huh?

Then a student in one of the other classes that I've become friends with told me her family (just her mom, dad, and sister) would be making kimchi this weekend, and invited me along. Whooo! I was so excited: where and when would I ever learn to make kimchi again? And when would I get a chance to make such a colossal amount of anything?

So this afternoon I went to her family's apartment to see what this kimchi season is really all about. Her family was really funny and nice and since Ellie (the student) speaks English well and I've been learning more Korean lately, the language barrier wasn't even an issue. Really, I was in heaven.

As you can see, there's quite a bit of hot red pepper sauce and vegetables here...I was shocked by the size of these buckets! And I really didn't expect that much red pepper sauce -- where does it all come from?

It's made from crushed dried chili peppers, water, garlic, salt, sugar, boiled anchovies, miniature pickled shrimp, and I think some other stuff, but I don't remember it all.

To the red pepper sauce they added sliced radishes and some sort of leafy green (they didn't know the English name for it and I didn't recognize it) before putting it on the cabbage. While Mr. Oh (the dad) was mixing this sauce he was sweating a ton -- it was pretty thick and there was obviously a lot of it.

The cabbages in the buckets had been salted, rinsed, and wrung the day before. There were 50 in all -- you know, 4 people don't need too much kimchi.

Each cabbage had been cut into fourths. We took a fourth, put red pepper sauce between each leaf, bundled it up with the longest outer leaf, and packed it into the plastic bins you see stacked around. It wasn't that difficult, but the pile of cabbage just never ended. There was always another cabbage.


After I put in my quota of one large tub, they let me fill a little tub to bring home with me -- although this is actually a ton of kimchi. Good thing I like it.

The final product. They have two kimchi refrigerators, where they will keep all of this during the upcoming months.

So now my cultural identity is becoming blurred, as I look proudly the little bin of kimchi I made and anticipate all the kimchi jjigae I can make for many months to come. I told them I would be sure to make kimchi with my family when I go back to the States.

traditional wedding

I know I haven't updated this for ages, so I'm not sure if anybody's still reading it....

I went to a traditional Korean wedding with my boyfriend about a month ago but forgot to post the pictures. Since western-style weddings have taken over here, most Koreans have never even been to a traditional wedding, and there was someone explaining the significance of each part as they went along. It was interesting -- having a translator helped.

A lot of the ceremony was funny, because the customs have become obsolete. For example, the bride's father stood at the altar and asked the groom "Where are you from and why are you here?" before he (the groom) was allowed to come down the aisle.

The bride was carried to the aisle in a tiny and very decorative wooden box. Before she came down the aisle, she was supposed to be hesitant to show that she was modest and shy of the groom.

Later in the ceremony the groom was given two enormous chopsticks and a huge piece of tofu. He had to find a way pick up the tofu with the chopsticks to demonstrate his cleverness. It was really funny to watch, but eventually he abandoned the chopsticks and grabbed the tofu with his hand.

The altar was decorated with food and two live chickens, which used to be part of the bride's dowry (although that's not what they call it...I can't remember the Korean word). The chickens were tied up in baskets and surprisingly calm -- they didn't make a sound! At the end of the ceremony they untied the chickens and threw them up into the air.

Everybody was in hanbot, which is traditional Korean clothing. As you can see, it was beautiful, and made me wonder why anybody here would want a western-style wedding....

Anyway, here are the pictures:

The altar.

Bride and groom (my boyfriend and the bride went to college together).

Part of the ceremony, but I don't know what he was doing. The main point is his Nikes.

Getting ready to toss the chickens.

The groom carrying the bride on his back after the ceremony. See the chickens? One on either side of them.